Gongju & Buyeo: Walking Through Korea’s Ancient Baekje Kingdom

Long before Seoul, three kingdoms ruled the Korean peninsula — and the most artistic of them, Baekje, made its home in what is now Chungnam. While crowds flock to Gyeongju in the east, the old Baekje capitals of Gongju and Buyeo stay refreshingly quiet, even though they share the same UNESCO World Heritage status.

Gongju: fortress on the river

Gongju’s centerpiece is Gongsanseong, a hilltop fortress whose earthen and stone walls loop for 2.6km above the Geum River. The walk along the ramparts takes about an hour and is stunning in autumn. Nearby, the Royal Tombs of Songsan-ri include the intact Tomb of King Muryeong — one of the most important archaeological finds in Korean history.

Buyeo: the last capital

A short drive south, Buyeo was Baekje’s final capital. Climb Busosanseong for views over the river, see the elegant five-story stone pagoda at the Jeongnimsa temple site — one of only a few surviving from the era — and wander the lotus-filled Gungnamji, Korea’s oldest man-made pond.

Good to know

• Getting there: about 1.5–2 hours from Seoul by express bus (to Gongju or Buyeo).
• Best season: autumn, for the fortress walls and golden foliage.
• Pace: Gongju and Buyeo pair perfectly over one slow day or an easy overnight.