Seoul Travel Guide: A First-Timer’s Introduction to Korea’s Capital

Myeongdong shopping street with food stalls in Seoul

For almost every visitor, Korea begins in Seoul. Home to roughly half the country’s population once you count the surrounding metro area, it’s a city where 600-year-old palaces sit in the shadow of glass towers, where you can start the morning in a hanbok at a royal gate and end the night at a rooftop bar in Gangnam. It can feel overwhelming at first — so here’s how to make sense of it.

A city split by a river

The Han River cuts Seoul in two, and the simplest way to picture the city is north versus south. North of the river (Gangbuk) is the historic heart — palaces, hanok villages, markets, and old neighborhoods. South of the river (Gangnam) is the newer, glossier Seoul of high-rises, designer boutiques, and tech offices. Most first-timers spend the bulk of their time in the north and dip south for a day.

The historic north

Start at Gyeongbokgung, the grandest of the five royal palaces, and time your visit for the changing-of-the-guard ceremony. Just uphill, Bukchon Hanok Village preserves lanes of traditional tiled-roof homes, while Insadong nearby is the place for tea houses, galleries, and crafts. Wander east to Ikseon-dong, a warren of old hanok now filled with cafes and boutiques — one of the city’s most charming pockets.

The youthful west

For energy, head to Hongdae, the university district packed with live music, street performers, and late-night food. The neighboring streets of Yeonnam-dong and Hapjeong have become a cafe-hopper’s paradise. This is where you feel Seoul’s creative, youthful pulse.

The modern south

Cross to Gangnam for upscale shopping and the vast Starfield COEX Mall with its photogenic library. Trend-watchers should make for Seongsu-dong — “Seoul’s Brooklyn” — where old factories have become concept stores and roasteries, and Apgujeong for designer flagship culture.

Views, markets, and food

For the classic skyline shot, ride up N Seoul Tower on Namsan or hike one of the city’s surprising mountains, like Inwangsan. When hunger hits, the city’s markets deliver: Gwangjang Market for old-school bites like bindaetteok and mayak gimbap, Myeongdong for photogenic street food, and any backstreet for Korean BBQ. Don’t leave without a late-night plate of fried chicken and beer (“chimaek”).

Easy day trips

Seoul is a perfect base. The DMZ on the North Korean border is the most popular half-day tour, and the UNESCO-listed Hwaseong Fortress in nearby Suwon makes a great day out (see our Gyeonggi guide for more).

Good to know

  • Getting around: the subway is clean, cheap, and bilingual — grab a T-money card at any convenience store. Use Naver Map or KakaoMap rather than Google Maps.
  • Best time: spring (cherry blossoms, April) and autumn (foliage, October) are glorious; summers are hot and humid, winters cold but crisp.
  • Stay central: base yourself around Myeongdong, Jongno, or Hongdae for easy access.